AFRICAN ENCOUNTER

Overland Safari Blog

January – May 1973

Part Nine - Cameroon

We are getting into more prosperous territory -  note the buildings the bicycles and the outfit and the upright posture! 

Cameroon - We entered after Bangui and left between Maiduguri and Kano

  

Where Cameroon sits in West Africa  - between the Sea and the Desert

Some Backgound on Cameroon  

Early inhabitants of the territory included the Sao civilisation around Lake Chad, and the Baka hunter-gatherers in the southeastern rainforest. Portuguese explorers reached the coast in the 15th century and named the area Rio dos Camarões (Shrimp River), which became Cameroon in English. Fulani soldiers founded the Adamawa Emirate in the north in the 19th century, and various ethnic groups of the west and northwest established powerful chiefdoms and fondoms. Cameroon became a German colony in 1884 known as Kamerun..After World War1, it was divided between France and the United Kingdom as League of Nations mandates. The Union des Populations du Cameroun (UPC) political party advocated independence, but was outlawed by France in the 1950s, leading to the national liberation insurgency fought between French and UPC militant forces until early 1971. In 1960, the French-administered part of Cameroon became independent, as the Republic of Cameroun, under President Ahmadou Ahido. The southern part of British Cameroons federated with it in 1961 to form the Federal Republic of Cameroon. The federation was abandoned in 1972. The country was renamed the United Republic of Cameroon in 1972 and back to the Republic of Cameroon in 1984 by a presidential decree by president Paul Biya. Paul Blya, the incumbent president, has led the country since 1982 following Ahidjo's resignation; he previously held office as prime minister from 1975 on. Cameroon is governed as a Unitary Presidential Republic. 

The official languages of Cameroon are French and English, the official languages of former French Cameroons and British Cameroons. Its religious population is predominantly Christian, with a significant minority practising Isalm, and others following traditional faiths. It has experienced tensions from the English-speaking territories, where politicians have advocated for greater decentralisation and even complete separation or independence (as in the Southern Cameroons National Council). In 2017, tensions over the creation of an Ambazonian state in the English-speaking territories escalated into open warfare.

Large numbers of Cameroonians live as subsistence farmers. The country is often referred to as "Africa in miniature" for its geological, linguistic and cultural diversity. Its natural features include beaches. deserts, mountains, rainforest and savannas. Its highest point, at almost 4,100 metres (13,500 ft), is Mount Cameroon in the Southwest Region.. Its most populous cities are Doula on the Wouri Rier,  its economic capital and main seaport, Yaounde, its political capital; and Garoua. Limbe in the Southwest has a natural seaport. Cameroon is well known for its native music styles, particularly Makossa, Njang and Bikutsi,  and for its successful national football team. It is a member state of the African Union, the United Nations, the Organisation Internationale de la Francophone (OIF), the Commomwealth of Nations, Non-Aligned Movement and to the Organisation of Islamic Cooperation. 

Many thanks to Wikipedia for the sort of information which might have been useful 50 years ago. 

April 9 1973

Leaving the RCA and entering Cameroon was achieved without diffculty, we had the necessary visas in our passports, so what could go wrong?

The town of Gargua-Boula with its market was the first real town we encountered in Cameroon. 

Here i made a recording of the Children - nothing too tuneful but they did give a strong rendition of "Jeunesse Camerounaise" - a chant which grew in voulme and to which we beat a retreat in the Truck. As we left the Town, the inevitable congregation of children followed after us together with one adult who was apparently rather retarded and wore no clothes from which it was apparent that he was not retarded in a certain physical aspect, something which the girls in the party were not slow to comment on. I DID NOT take a photo of him - although i suspect someone did! 

One of the joys of Cameroon was finding Mango trees with ready to eat fruit, andae they clothes for sale or washing - we were starting to see something approachin elegence in the dress.  

What was also becoming apparent, although difficult to tell by novices, was that the people we were seeing were Arab rather than the Negroid/ Bantu people we had become used to seeing from the start ofthe journey.

There were good markets in each of the towns we passed and the Folk were cheerful and friendly  

The Open Markets presented much colour and interest wherever we went 

April 11 1973

Another market and note the contrasting dress and the local "fashion icon”

More elegant dress and posture - wat we could learn from these people!

Graham tries out one of the local costumes  

The Butcher's stall - what annimal had been butchered I know not, but the Flies were certailnly keen on it this was Not a market where we bought meat!  It is noticeable that the legs on the carcase look rather thin - an animal that did much walking / running maybe? (This may have been in the RCA but it had to be included!) 

This was one way to carve the "Sunday Joint"

The vibrancy of the People and their dress cried-out to be photographed so a lot a Fllm was use up in Cameroon. 

A Cameroon Village 

April 12 1973

Not only were the people changing the nature of the countryside though which we were passing was changing to something which was distinctly volcanic, Rhumsike and Kapsiki were the two names I recall from this time.

The Cameroon volcanic landscape 

It was apparent that as we drove further north that the people were becoming less Negroid and more Arabic, however it was not always easy to tell which was which.

I wonder if these ever went off simultaneously, and when? They are Volcanic Plugs through which what appears to be a reasonable road - but wait till the coming of the Rains!!

I am not sure that I would care to live in such a Volcanic region, but some clearly did so.

 More Cameroonian Spectators again note the straight backs !

Rural House Building – Cameroon style

As we travelled we met and talked with more Cameroonian people – some who were willing to do a bit of singing for the cassette recorder. I was noticeable that what they were singing appeared to have come from French missionaries, and had adapted local idioms to European ideas.

A sight which is quite familiar throughout Africa

More of the above

As Cameroon and its People were so photogenic, and friendly,  I  have included a wider sample of pictures. 

A sight that we didn't see much of - note the contrast between the "adornments" and the partly distended belly of this beautiful child. 

By the time we had got this far certain catch phrases had taken root in the "Lingua Franca" used by members on the journey. A number were based on the sorts of things one might have heard from wealthy tourists from the USA, had they ever come this way.

The principal charcters being Wilbur:  "Hay Wibur come over here and see these quaint litlle .....", and Wilbur's response - "Wilhemina  "Come over here and see these quaint ...."

There was also the cry when things were getting rather slowly - "C'mon you guys let's get this show on the Road!"

One occasiono I recall in particular was when we had stopped on a bridge over a small stream and there was what seemed like a huge Chorus of Frogs - I sped to them with Recorder at the ready, and started to make what would have been a great recording of the Amphibians - the script went something like: 

- Quiet - not a sound other than Frogs croaking loudly. 

- Stuart is observed to be down by the Stream recording for which he would like quiet. 

- He is spotted by one of the other male members of the party.

- "Hay STOOARD" - resounds across the stream, and when it bacame apparent that it was having an effect (on Stuart) it was taken up by others 

To which the response was, I am ashamed to say:

- "F...  Off!!!"  To which the next response was something like

- "Ah, the cry of the Frustrated Naturalist!"

This is something which I feel sure that I have on tape and it is my hope that once this Blog has records our arrival in London I will be able to add a recording of some of the sounds that we heard as we travelled through, at least, Central Africa, and there will almost certainly be a Train (probably in South Africa)!  

FOOD, as ever was an important part of the journey, I think that we all lost much weight on the trip. However, at this point in the journey as well as Green Oranges and Bananas, freshly picked Mangoes had begun to form regular part of our diet - beautifullly ripe! 

.   

-            This Mango stone is tough but lovely, and I don't need my very colourful Bowl to eat it!

I couldn't resist including another shot of this rather elegant young lady, and her Bowl, before leaving Cameroon.