AFRICAN ENCOUNTER

Overland Safari Blog

January – May 1973

Part Seven  – From Kisangani to Central African Republic

The Main Road in Zaire - it got worse, much worse!

I recall finding out about EO and the journey to London from Tony Jones Brother who was based in JHB and was able to fill me in with some of the details of how the trip might operate. 

I found that the only problem was that, having never been on such a journey I didn't know what I needed to know and hence what questions to ask. At that meeting I was given a brochure telling me such things as the places through which we might pass and the challenges that we might have to face. In the brochure I learned a bit more, including a sentence that I recall (not quite clearly) but to the effect that I would learn something about myself. 

This seemed slightly confusing as at the time I thought that I knew a fair bit about myself - how wrong could I be; it seems that it has taken some 50 years to begin to see some of the things which I would now see as Lightbulb moments - rather than just a catalogue of experiences which I would encounter. 

 One of the most interesting things on the trip was the people; there we were crossing the middle of Africa, a group of 16 of us, mostly strangers, bound together for, we were not quite sure, for how long, and living in very close contact. And we were all young and pretty warm blooded, (I know, it sounds a bit like a Premier League football team - I wonder how they cope - at least they can go home at  night! ) 

Whilst in JHB I was given the opportunity to meet someone else who was giving serious thought to the trip, but for him, like myself the journey was going to be a "new experience" - although he had  done miltary service in Viet-Nam and had experience of some of the conditions we might encounter but he would not be required to kill anyone (probably) or hopefully to defend himself in any conflict situation, but it was reassuirng to know that he would be there with his experience which, hopefully, he would never have to use. It had been stressed to us that the Truck was not Armed and no-one on the trip would be allowed to carry an offensive weapon. (pen-knives were about as far as it went)

The other issue that arose as we learned about each other was that relationships grew as the trip progressed, some of them were friendships and some were what have been described as a "shipboard romances" and, in those cases, it was interesting to see who chose who, if at all, and guess at the likelihood of any of those relationships lasting for the trip or even beyond the arrival in London (what a cynic!) 

As we proceed further north through Africa, I find that numerous cobwebs have crept into the memory bank (the what, you say) of what came next, so the following stage may not be strictly in order. although I have done my best. 

30 March – April 3 1973

Once we had left Kisangani we began to encounter some of the worst conditions on our journey, although more challenging conditions were far off yet. It was very clear that few, if any, vehicles used what the map showed to be the main road north from Kisangani, if indeed, anyone owned a vehicle!

First we came to a ferry over the River Aruimi; watching the truck being driven onto the Ferry was a moment to hold the breath and I, and some others chose to do the crossing by dug-out canoe, which, at least, had the advantage of being able to take photos of the operation, if maybe not being quite as safe?

John drives the Truck and trailer onto the Ferry, with apparent confidence – note the gap between the bank and the Ferry! It is probablly worth remembering that John had already done a southbound trip and had probably used the same Ferries

Our “Home” crossing the river on what was a very simple structure serving as a Ferry - that's Mike looking like a Figurehead

It is interesting to reflect on what we might have done had one of the Ferries failed and our precious home had finished up deep down in what was probably home to the local Hippos and Crocodiles, but fortunately they did not! 

That day we passed what had been an Airfield – which might have once been Kisangani Airport, and which, had it not been for an abandoned plane, might have been missed completely as it had substantially taken over by nature. So to our list of abandoned twentieth century items in the central African countries - Houses, an Abbey and railway trains, we could now add an aeroplane. 

31 March 1973 – this day was marked by what I have said was a very bad road – and probably managed to travel about 25 miles. A bad road meant – a muddy track, very little used, with obstructions to be cleared – Fallen trees etc. We set up camp in a deserted settlement just past Buta but were washed out by the rain and moved into a deserted outhouse for the night.

1 April 1973 – “April fools day” was to be another difficult day. We crossed another river by Ferry, at Bondo – this one looks a little more efficient than the previous one.(The following pictures are a selection of those taken on three River crossings at this time. The Ferries in each case look as if a large wave, or a Hippo, might sink them!).  

Having “collected” the Ferry by Dug-outand negotiated a Fare, we then had to return to collect the Truck, which had attracted a small group of observers 

Havig crossed the river by Dug-out we returned to collect the Truck whic can be on the bank awaiting the arrival of the Ferry

Dug-out Canoes wait for some more dfbusiness

Another passenger on a Dug-out, maybe he was going to a Dentist, but it seems doubtful.  

As we cross the river a motorised Dug-out heads in the opposite direction 

After a safe arrival at the other bank John is left to drive the Truck onto the Hard Ground.

Gerry leads the way off another Ferry showing what should be the floppy wrists of a Pianist / Violinist (which I feel sure she was not!) 

April Fool's day really lived up to its name and had further challenges in store in the shape of a bridge on the road which had collapsed and into which a Lorry had driven inevitably attracting its crowd of “helpers” and onlookers.

A lorry sits in the collapsed road and is a warning to other road users, note the queue of vehicles coming in the opposite direction, including a bus. Various members of the party have gone to inspect – is that an Umbrella I can see??! 

    Onlookers at the scene of the subsidence get some entertainment while,          it can be seen just how inhospitable the road could become, very quickly! 

 Ernst has carried out an inspection of the problem and returns to report to the rest of us, as John looks on

That night we spent in an “unused house” which leaked as we discovered when it rained in the night! But we were getting an impression that the colonial settlers who had lived here had lived in relative luxury. 

We came to a very sturdy looking bridge, over what looks more like a Swamp, but which proudly showed its parentage as British, I imagine that the builders must have had some ordeals in transporting the parts here, but they seem to have made a lasting structure. It is noticeable that the "road" across the bridge comprised planks of wood.

Bridge built with aid from Great Britain

Here we also came across ivory carvers and their products, which they tried to get us to buy, unsuccessfully. It was not clear where the tusks had come from but it seems that somewhere in the country there was a national park with Elephants. Even at that stage the elephant population had started to shrink and it was not considered wise to encourage the use of the tusks. I think that this is one of the saddest photos I took on the trip. 

Tusk Carver with Graham and Ernst in the background 

The Tusk Carvers at work

Further bridges and ferries were to follow, one ferry in particular I recall on which the truck was loaded whilst the rest of us waited until the heavy load had been safely delivered. 

At this stage we had been travelling along some very primitive roads (trucks), along which hordes of very attractive small butterflies had hatched and would fly up in a cloud as the truck passed them.

Another "main road" in Zaire – this was a good one we must have kept our                     heads down as we passed under the fallen tree!

3 -7 April 1973

The crossing of the Oubangi River by another of the ferries took us from Zaire into the Republic of Central Africa; this was another example of an international border which was clearly defined by a geographical feature. Having crossed the river we landed at Bangassou, which looked very much like the  picture in the brochure which had brought all together to do this expedition.

We approached our exit from Zaire with some anxiety given our concerns on entering the country – would we be asked to prove that we had spent the stipulated amount while we were in the country – and what would happen if we hadn’t – maybe jail back in Kisangani or worse!

We need not have worried, the “Customs Official” at the border was quite relaxed – I expect that he might have seen other truck loads like ours and knew what to expect and to turn the proverbial “blind eye”, though what the authorities in Kinshasa would think goodness knows, but we would never find out!

Next Part : Into the RCA , Bangassou. and President Bokassa,