AFRICAN ENCOUNTER
Overland Safari Blog
January – May 1973
Part Six – From King Edward National Park to Kisangani
"Europeans at Stanleyville in 1902" - rather how one expected "Colonials" to appear. The sorts of White Men one ight have found in some of the large houses, now shells, that we had passed. It is noticable that there are only men in this photo - although there is some evidence of other, non-white, people in the background .
27 March 1973
As we journeyed on, the following day
we came across something which was rare in two ways; this was an enclosure
in which Okapi were kept. The Okapi is a creature looking rather like a cross
between an antelope and a zebra. What was even more unexpected in this part of
the world was that the enclosure in which they were kept was managed by a
keeper who proudly showed off the creatures for whom he was responsible. Unexpected given that the area through which we were now travelling had been subject to so much violence and revolution.
28-29 March 1973 Having turned towards the west we came across the Zaire / Congo River, and eventually arrived at the town of Kisangani. Here is some background on the City.
"Before Henry Morton Stanley, working on behalf of King Leopold II of the Belgians, founded what would become Stanley Falls Station in 1883, on the Island of Wana Rusari in the Congo River, the area was inhabited by a native Congolesle triabe known as the Clans of Enya, who had used Wagenia Falls (formerly Stanley Falls) for fishing. The island is located a few meters from the shore site of the present town on the Lualaba River, its seven falls spread over 100 kilometres (62 miles) between Kisangani and Ubundu.
Stanley founded the area's first trading post, some 2,100 kilometres (1,300 miles) from the mouth of the Congo River, in December 1883. The settlement was known first as Falls Station (or "the Post Stanley Falls" or "The Falls" or simply "Boyoma" the African name of Boyoma Falls) and the, with Belgian colonization of the area, it grew into a settlement called Stanleyville. A city terminus of steamer navigaion on the Congo River, the town began as a trading post. It has been the major centre of the northern Congo sinc the late 19th century.
Stanley left Mr. Binnie, an engineer who was a Scotsman, in charge to trade with the local people and to be the chief representative of King Leopold's Congo Free State in the area. The name "Kisangani" was apparently used consistently by the local people, while the name "Stanleyville" was used by French (and Stanleystad in Dutch). In the Swahili manual published by the Marist Brothers in the 1920's, we find an example of substitution naming "from X to Stanleyville" which is translated "toka X Mpaka Kisangani". The name Kisangani is a Swahili rendering of the indigenous Congolese language word Boyoma, meaning "City on the Island", also rendered in Lingala as Singatini with the same meaing.
Soon after tje establishment of ties between the Africans and Europeans, slavers from Zanzibar, traditionally called "Arabs" by European writers of the time. reached Stanley Falls from the east. Relations between Free State officials and the slavers were strained and. after a fight, the station was abandoned in 1887. (Wikipediea)
Stanley was, of course the famous Anglo-American explorer (who legend has it, found Livingstone and reputedly greeted him with “Dr Livingstone, I presume?) Clearly Kisangani had suffered in the fairly recent Congolese civil war of the 1960’s as the buildings facing the river bore witness. All of them, including the Abbey were peppered with bullet holes, and one could imagine the gunboats which had cruised up and down the river firing them.Up to this point the river, now 1300 miles from the sea, was still navigable, but, due to the rapids and falls, it was not possible to sail further upstream. It was however possible to cross the river in large dug-out canoes powered by outboard motors. or just by paddle..
Encounter with a bather, from a manually paddled Dugout Ferry across the Congo River
The shell of Kisangani Abbey which showed clear signs of having been attacked, and lacked its roof
On the far bank were buildings and what appeared to be the remains of a railway station and a locomotive depot in which the old steam engines still languished as nature took over. It proved too much of a temptation for a former "Train Spotter" to go and have a look around.
The only way of getting over to see them up close was on one of the Dug-out Canoes which were frequently crossing the River. There were probably some risks involved, but given that so many local people seemed to be entrusting themselves to the Canoes there seemed little reason not to take the crossing.
There were several steam locomotives which had apparently been left to rust, and some had plants using them as Flower Pots. The railway
had been built by the Belgians with track and rolling stock which had been brought from Belgium, and up the Congo River to take the cargoes which could not be taken through the rapids south
of Kisangani. It had obviously seen some better times.
Nature taking over at Kisangani railway depot
A Zairean version of "Thomas The Tank Engine" in the Loco sheds at Kisangani, with some railway workers in the shadows.
The one locomotive in steam shunts some substantial wagons at Kisangani Station, given the barrels also in evidence it appeared that the railway was still in use, but how safe was it....?
It was fascintating to see the girls and women alongside the river bank braiding one another’s hair, my first experience of this activity, and I recall buying a postcard which illustrated the different styles of braiding.
Dug-outs ready for business to cross the Congo / Zaire River
A well loaded dug-out, with outboard motor, crossing the Congo River. Note, the girl’s
hair-style and the Ferryman’s bicycle
Another example of Hair Braiding on show in the Market, as well as a brightly coloured outfit there also seems to be some evidence of vaccination having been given.
Whilst at Kisangani we spent a couple of nights at the back of an hotel which was run by a Greek man, who had clearly lived there for many years and knew much of the history of the place, although I am not sure why he had stayed there.
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